You've seen the movies, you've heard the beach boys, you may have even been to a surf shop or two and seen those expensive pieces of fiberglassed foam painted in a rainbow of colors.
As a kid those surfboards always sucked me in like a tractor beam. I was drawn to them almost the same way I was drawn to guitars in a guitar shop...but I didn't live at the beach, so..."out of sight, out of mind" right?
Just recently my adventurous spirit has gotten the best of me and I've been trying to experience those things I've always wanted to, but never had the chance.
I have to say, with experience now, that surfing is possibly the most fun thing I've ever done.
When you see that wall of water rising up before you, capable of smashing you into the sand below, it normally brings a feeling over you that can best be expressed by "oh crap" or "yeeehhhhh.....doh!" But with this 9' board, I can blend with that wall of water...matching my intent with that of the wave, so that what results is a beautiful display of power and grace....supple strength...yielding intensity.
If you can't know what I'm talking about because you've never tried...please make some time to try this addictive hobby.
For those of you who have already experienced this, please...for the love of God, keep surfing.
"hang loose"
jeff
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2 comments:
Well, I suppose it was bound to happen. The illustrious Jeff Gregory can now add "surfer" to his lists of hobbies.
Shameless with a capital "Shame."
MBH
shameless?
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