So today I lived out a dream that I've had since childhood. It actually kind of happened randomly too, which made it even sweeter. I ended up leaving my bathing suit at home accidently yesterday as kelley and I drove down to Fripp island.
This morning while everone else went out to the beach, Mrs. Bateman and I ran a couple of errands....including getting me a new bathing suit. At the surf shop that is close to Fripp, they ended up renting surf boards for pretty cheap and I rented one for the next week.
As Mrs. B and I walked out onto the beach...her carrying the surfboard over her head...Patrick, Kelley, and Erin just cracked up...well actually Patrick threw up a "rock on" hand and an afternoon of longboard surfing ensued.
Most of our time was spent wiping out, but each of us caught a handfull of waves that we rode in all the way. It's such an amazing feeling dropping in even on a small wave, standing up on the board, and feeling the surge of the ocean as it meets the shore push you along for a 10 second ride.
It's almost like the brief meeting of wave and land issues forth a surge of energy that we can tap into for a short time and witness a pure moment in time that will never happen again.
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