...like any good addiction, it's the times in between abuse that leave you with a huge hole in your being that aches for the next fix...
...and so I have discovered traditional climbing.
My folks gave me a huge pile of gear for my 30th birthday this year because of my increased climbing efforts over the past couple of years and my goals of doing a multipitch climb in Linville Gorge by the end of this next year. Since Kelley, Moira and I moved back from New Mexico, however, I've had no time to get outdoors. I finally had that opportunity this past Saturday and I called up my old buddy Scott to head up to North Carolina for a little day trip. I've heard that the Red Wall at Crowder's Mountain takes traditional gear pretty well and that the rock is trust worthy. I picked the easiest route I could find in the guidebook (a long but super easy 5.3). The route was pretty uneventful except that it was super dirty. Literally while I was climbing and placing gear in the rock, I had to clear out dirt or move fallen branches. I set up a multipoint anchor at the top and belayed Scott as he cleaned the route. We walked off the top for our first successful traditional climb!
We were in desperate need for some of Scott's PB&J afterwards and then Scott proceeded to tick out his first sport lead ever. It was a real crimpy 40 ft 5.7 climb at the end of Red Wall at Crowder's and he nailed it. I cleaned it afterwards and then we went to David's Castle wall to do some top roping for the end of our day. We climbed Overhang Direct 5.8 and we both enjoyed pulling the sweet little overhang crux that's halfway up that route.
On our short hike back to the parking lot from the crag, we both agreed that the whole "trad" climbing thing is much more than it's cracked up to be. We're both addicted and will continue following that white rabbit as far as it takes us. Hopefully the next adventure will put us on some moderate routes in Linville Gorge!
