Chapter 2 continued - "The Wave"

...

3) Catching the wave

So you've paddled out, you've been waiting around for a while...and if you're like me...it's usually on my back checking out the cloud patterns or something you know?! Totally...as a matter of fact, I'm probably not the one to give you advice at all on how to actually catch the wave man. For me, a good wave usually just finds me and the whole "drop in" thing just happens. He yeah!...I remember so many of those rad cloud patterns. Some of the big white fluffy ones can take so many shapes! penguins, squid, coconuts, fire urchins, chickens...oh...sorry...andyway.
For a lot of people, I hear that they have to start paddling in the same direction as the wave...matching its energy, and then pop up when they feel the surge of the wave under their board. That sounds good too bro.

Life application - If you can learn to enjoy whatever you find yourself doing (and there is usually some element of everything can can be enjoyed or that is at least interesting in a cool sort of way) then life stops seeming like a series of tasks to get through, and becomes so rich with experience and opportunity to learn.

4) Helping the surfer-in-need

You know dude...life would be pretty boring if there weren't other surfers to enjoy it with. I'm not one of those territorial chickens, you know...always guarding the surf like I own the waves at a certain beach. Heck no bra...I've learned about the KAVU lifestyle! "Become a local...worldwide". In fact, it's that mentality that took me to Antarctica where I met my bud Cody. Anywho...one of the most crucial parts of surfing (other than having a blast) is meeting all the other cool surfers out there...on the beach...in the surf...whether they're shredding it up or whether it's shredding THEM up! We've always got to be there for each other so that surfing continues to be FUN and not something that keeps emergency rooms filled. So dude...if you're riding that perfect wave and another guy (or chick) is flailing in the soup (the "soup", by the way is all of the churned up water where a wave set crashes...you can get stuck in it sometimes if you're not careful), you've got to step in and help them out. Who knows!? you might just meet your next best friend bro!

Life Application - uh...pretty obvious here bro, but... RELATIONSHIPS ARE WHAT GIVES LIFE ITS MEANING. You can't just paddle out and ride 'em in alone all the time.

Keep contributing to the collective pool of individuals that make you a part of something greater than yourself.