It's been roughly a year since my first surfing experience. Kelley and I have really been enjoying our summer vacations with her parents and we're at Fripp island again for one last east coast hoorah before we take off for New Mexico.
I rented a little 7'3" fun shape foam board from the local rinky dink beach shop. The guys there are super nice and definitely family-oriented.
My brother-in-law (Patrick) and I went surfing (or trying to surf) out at the Fripp beach today...it was flat, choppy and confused, so we relocated in the afternoon to Hunting Island. The change in surf was amazing to say the least. Some of the waves were really great and I got up more times than I could count. Which is really what it's all about! A little tanner, a little more worn-out, and definitely more in touch with my zen...I left the beach happy and feeling accomplished in my still-newbie-surfer status.
Today I focused on trying to turn down the face of the wave. A couple of times I actually got up early enough on the wave to turn down it successfully...but these waves still are way to short to enjoy a real long ride. My rides today lasted between 2 and 12 seconds tops.
we'll see what the tide brings in tomorrow!
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